Anti-Aging: Alpha-Hydroxy

These chemical peels give results that are similar to microdermabrasion - erasing fine lines and giving the skin a smoother appearance with 3 to 6 applications. However, these treatments must be repeated every 3 to 6 months to maintain this skin appearance. Doctors can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a concentration of 50% to 70%. These treatments also erase fine wrinkles and remove surface scars, but the effects last longer - up to 2 to 5 years.Alpha-hydroxy is a chemical compound derived from fruit and milk sugars. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are use in topical skin care products to exfoliate, or slough away, dead skin cells and promote collagen growth. They can be useful in promoting smoother, even-toned skin and may reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines in some individuals. The higher the alpha hydroxy acid concentration used in a chemical peel, the more skin irritation occurs. At the 50% to 70% concentration, a person could expect to have severe redness, flaking, and oozing skin that can last for 1 to 4 weeks.# Using an alpha hydroxy acid in a moisturizer base may be the best combination of products. # Cleansers containing alpha hydroxy acids are not very effective because the alpha hydroxy acid must be absorbed in the skin to work. Cleansers are washed off before this absorption occurs. # At this time there are no effective products that combine alpha hydroxy acid and sunscreen, because sunscreen is not stable at the pH required to make the alpha hydroxy acid effective. # Sunscreen MUST be applied liberally when using an alpha hydroxy acid product. The sunscreen should have an SPF of at least 15 for UVB protection and contain avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide for UVA protection. # Alpha hydroxy acids work best in a concentration of 5% to 8% and at a pH of 3 to 4. # Unfortunately, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to provide concentration information on the label. As a general rule of thumb, having the alpha hydroxy acid listed as the second or third ingredient on the list makes it more likely it contains the proper concentration. AHAs are available in a number of different synthetic and natural formulations. Lactic AHA is derived from milk products, while glycolic AHA is derived from sugarcane. Other AHA compounds include citric acid (from fruit) and malic acid (from apples). General Use AHAs work by removing dead cells at the surface of the skin. In higher concentrations, it promotes collagen production, which may reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in the skin. The acids penetrate deep into the skin, where they actually begin to damage skin cells. This skin damage triggers the production of collagen, a fibrous protein and a building block of tissue and skin, as the body attempts to repair the cell damage. Cosmetic, over-the-counter preparations of alpha-hydroxy must contain less than 10% of the compound according to U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations. This is a high enough concentration to promote exfoliation, but not potent enough to generate collagen production. The concentration of AHA required to produce this effect is only available with a prescription from a dermatologist or licensed healthcare professional, or through professionally administered treatments from a licensed cosmetologist.Alpha hydroxy is a familiar name to those seeking youthful skin; it is one in a long line of wonder ingredients in cosmetics and skin care products. Alpha hydroxy acids are an entire family of acids, which can be derived from fruit, milk or sugar. The most widely used in skin care is glycolic acid (made from sugar) and lactic acid (made from milk). These Alpha hydroxy acids are also called fruit or citric acids; women have been using lemon juice for 'bleaching' freckles for centuries. Surprisingly, to those hardened by years of over-hyped product claims, alpha hydroxy does just what it claims it will. Alpha hydroxy works by exfoliating the skin; that is, causing the surface skin cells to slough off, revealing newer, less damaged skin cells beneath. This can be done in a dermatologist's office, using a high concentration of Alpha hydroxy acid, in which case it is known as a 'chemical peel'. Lower concentrations of AHA applied over a longer period of time have a similar effect, but can take weeks or longer for the effects to appear. Since alpha hydroxy is an acid, it may irritate the skin, leaving it red, itchy or painful. In commercial, over-the-counter preparations, AHA should be in concentrations of less than ten percent. Its long-term use also appears to leave the user more sensitive to UV light (photosensitive) and therefore more prone to sunburn. The FDA warns that alpha hydroxy users should be sure to wear wide brimmed hats or strong sunscreen when outdoor, to prevent them from re-damaging the skin they have gone to such lengths to repair. A recent competitor to alpha hydroxy acid is its close kin, beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Unlike alpha hydroxy, there is only one beta hydroxy acid, salicylic acid. Derived from the same acid as aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), beta hydroxy shares some of its anti-inflammatory properties and is less irritating to most skin types than alpha hydroxy, and can work at much lower concentrations. Unfortunately, it too makes the user more susceptible to sun-damage. When shopping for skincare products, look for AHA, BHA, glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid in the listed ingredients. They should be in products that stay on the skin, since they must be absorbed into the skin's cells to be effective. But please, don't forget the sunscreen.